Hello there
Well I'm back in Canada, but it was not until after my final adventures on the east coast of Taiwan. Trying to fit in the very most into 4 days and I think my friends and I did fairly good.
After my last class ended Friday at 6pm all I could do was smile.
In Hualien, maybe because it's on the coast but everything and everyone comes in and goes out in waves, of course I mean another kind of wave, more like cycles. While I was in Hualien these cycles seemed to take place month to month, with people leaving, people coming back, changing or moving apartments and schools, everyone has something tell, each a story. I think it's fascinating.
Well my very last four days...
Saturday 6:13am I wake up with a start and look at the clock, I was suppose to get up an hour and 43 minutes ago, I throw on my biking clothes and run downstairs to wake up Karen, she is already up. No big deal that I was late she had just got up also. And the other Karen would be over in 15 minutes. We got out the bikes and packed them up, waited a half hour and then Karen and even our friend Danielle cycled up to our door fully packed with food and all the things we didn't think to bring. We were ready, the kitten's had food to last for two days and Tanya would meet us there. She wanted to take her scooter. The four of us hit the bike path and it was 7am. Taking the road past Chishingtan and then along the highway to the rice-paddy roads, the ride was fairly quick and easy to the entrance of Taroko. With one rest and fuel up at the last 7/11. We sat on the pavement and ate crasins, and mixed nuts, and I had a yogurt drink. Danielle explained to me the path and said to me that there were two really steep parts on the road to Tiancheng and I might feel as though I would die but that those were the hardest parts and they weren't too long.
After the first stop and climbing back on my bike is always the hardest part for me, because somewhere in the back of my mind there is that glimmer that I'm not too far from home yet, I could simply just bike home and not go on. However we kept on. The other three girls decided that we would meet at the entrance for the tunnel of 9 curves, so we could each go at our own pace. This was a great idea because I had never been before. Once through the grand red gated entrance, it was like being on an up-mountain exotic drug. I just wanted more and more after every turn, curve, and slope. This place just kept opening, revealing more and more the hidden beauty it holds within itself. Majestic marble rock, small waterfalls of clear water that reflected to the blue sky through and through. My eyes darted up, down, and around, I just couldn't stop looking or reaching out with my hand as I cycled close to the wall of the mountain just to feel the ancient rock on my finger tips. I stopped often to get off my bike and take pictures. Which I realize is really quite silly because how can the 35mm technology really capture the 3d serenity of real time and place.
I was over run with feeling. Why had I not been here yet? Nearly four months living an hour and 1/2 ish away by scooter... I got off my bike again and tried to climb a waterfall slide. I must have looked like a lizard suctioned to a wall, because that is how I felt and my 'Jimmy's' strap backed sandals wouldn't make the journey so I kept on my bike. I was by myself for the majority of the ride. The ride grew better and better... really it did. In my mind, I kept anticipating those two really steep rides Danielle had warned me against but, to me, they never came. A progressive 5 1/2 hours later the five of us were all together again up in the small town of Tianscheng. Even Tanya who had passed me on her scooter 45 minutes earlier was there. We all had a coffee and ate some ginger snacks that Karen brought. They were organic ginger snaps from an Ontario Health food store in Toronto... the store also carries my families honey. One could say that the ginger snaps were a pretty special snack to be eating way up in a mountain on the other side of the world.
Bernard and Ryan flew in on their bicycles stopped to catch their breath, had a coffee and then took off back down the mountain, their goal for the bike ride was hard and fast exercise. I think they made it from Hualien to Tianscheng in 2 hours or so. WOW. But they had to get back for the ultimate Rugby match of the year, New Zealand vs. South Africa.
We would be staying at a cottage we had reserved at a place called the Dia Mama's, a small protestant youth hostel. It has a tiny little cute church at its entrance and then the house, hostel and little cottage; pretty much carved into the mountain leading down to the rushing river below. Very quaint and cute. Although I was exhausted, I couldn't stop my curiosity which seemed to be peeking at this particular moment. So I went do to the river for a swim, but the water was to fast. I did find some excellent marble stones instead. I also discovered that sometimes going down a rock and jumping off it leaves someone as short as me stranded on the other side, looking for any other possible way back.
Well, this was the river was too fast thus too murky , it had thrown up and churned its muddy clay bottom turning the water from crystal blue to dark thick grey.
The other girls came down and were into reading and sun bathing. They had all been up to Taroko before and the great thing about Taroko is that you can do what you like. So I went off again. I picked up my bike and cycled 1km up to were there was the head of a really nice trail began. To get to the river and the start of the trail I had to first go through a very dark, damp tunnel. 1km long the light at the end of the tunnel from the beginning was a mere destination, a speckle of light. I made it through, my eyes nearly never leaving that bit of light at the end. The tunnel had also cooled me down quite a bit then I began to think to myself, "Well, the sun will be setting in the next couple... hmm... not sure when but soon nonetheless. I should just go in the water quickly and then head back to the cottage as to not get caught going through the scary cave in the dark with no head lamp, I will come back tomorrow." The water here was that magic blue colour I was hoping for, and it was as crisp and refreshing to wash of the dust and sweat that had taken over my skin since biking. Feeling clean, new and kinda cold for the first time in a long time I decided now was a good time to go back to the Dia Mama's. Just at the gate though, I had a choice, I could enter and lock up my bike and sit as I always find myself doing or I could quickly see what lead up this curious path. I pulled down the kick stand and kinda run with a skip up this path. The path kept going, and going up. So much up that there were chain ropes to pull yourself up the mountain with. And the path kept going, then up and up I saw a sign that told me I could keep going for another 2.3km this way or head back for 0.1km. Well, I'm only here now and I was excited about what I would find at the end of the 2.3 km's. It was going to be dark soon, so I kinda ran a little up the stairs and up the winding path, nearing the peak of the mountain. I had no idea what I would find, but the path kept going up until the sign read 1km this way and 1.4km back that way. Then I started heading down, I was pretty much going forward from a pure body rush that I ran down the stairs until I was halted by a recent land slide, and I only had 0.2km's left. From the top most point of the trail I could see the river I had just swam in and I was heading down, so not giving up really just realizing my safety and that soon it would be dark and I would be on this path where no-one knew where I was I thought I wouldn't risk it and started back up. My guess was that I would end up at the river in pretty much the same spot as where I was swimming earlier, so I wouldn't be missing out on something I hadn't seen yet. This time, to keep me going mostly I thought to count the number of steps. (A step was counted when there was a fair drop beneath or ascent above where my opposite foot would be placed.) So trying to hurry but feeling tight in my legs after this extreme amount of physical exertion this day, I think it fair to say I was becoming slightly more then exhausted, I really didn't think I would make it. So I counted. I counted 900 steps on the way back. So calculating it out quickly I went up and down 1800 steps over a distance of 4.4km's. Man, WOW.
I got back and the girls were just climbing back up from the river bank and it was pitch dark. Everyone was ready for food and a glass of wine.
We ate a meal fit for a king. Danielle cooked up chicken and beans and made a salad. Tanya, Karen and I made tuna, tomato, and cucumber sandwiches, and cheese and crackers for an appetizer.
I didn't talk, I listened to the girl’s gossip and talk, I kinda fell back into reflection of my day and my time in Hualien and my time left in Hualien. After the wine was finished and the dishes were cleared I was tired, 'but' I thought 'I must make the most of my precious time here.' The Karen's, Tanya and I walked into the town bought a can of beer at the only store and went to the Grand Formosa Hotel were we snuck in and went down to the loud and obnoxious games/arcade room. We bowled in a half lane, making up crazy rules like bowling with the opposite hand, flipping over the ball belt turning, picking up the ball and tossing it down the lane. I did alright at some of bowls, but mostly I got gutters, while everyone else did pretty well. It was fun. We played bumper scooters, my luck was better here, I picked a good car. Tanya had the most luck at the slots, she played and shared 100NT and won 500NT. Nearly everyone had their forte, even Karen A. got to play the dance off game. It was ridiculous, she didn't win, but she had fun trying. Everyone was exhausted and so we nearly passed out on the couches in the hotel, but with the little strength we could muster we made our way back to the cottage and slept through into the next morning.
The only thing that kept my awake was the dutch oven that my feet stink made under my covers tucked in all night.
Stretching every muscle in my body in the morning light and eating a bowl of oats we all decided going hiking along the trail I had started yesterday but never really began would be in excellent order. We could get to amazing waterfalls and the curtain cave I had heard a lot about. The trail was truly stunning, and much easier and flatter then the one I had trekked last night. There were many dark and damp tunnels but during the brightest part of the day and with friends who owned head lamps it was nothing. And then after one curvy tunnel there it was the most stunning of all waterfalls I had seen yet. Crossing a rope bridge we got a closer look. Cameras were clicking everywhere, but I doubt anyone could capture it all. Because 'it all' is panoramic and surround sound. I met another traveler Aibec from Kyrgyzstan, I took his photo and then he followed us, 'white girls', who seem to always break the boundaries, up the trail further then the trail looked or seemed it could go. I wanted to feel the water more, so we hiked up and then the other girls stopped and I kept going scaling the rock wall. Aibec joined me so that was nice, and I also felt a bit safer when I jumped into the huge pool of the waterfall. So cool, like glacier water. But so clean and refreshing. WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW! Magnificent beauty!!! The girls sat on a perch type rock just watching and waiting and talking, they looked like baby eaglets in a nest, it was cute. In fact everything was that much more beautiful after being in the waterfall pool.
But all good things need to end, especially with growling hungry bellies. We stopped at one other spot further along the proper trail and it was a cave with a river running trough it. The cracks in the ceiling made the water stream out in curtains; it was amazing, cool and wet.
Karen, Karen, Tanya, Danielle, and I walked back to our bikes, but first for the girls had not actually got wet, wanted to go swimming so we jumped in were I had swam yesterday and took turns jumping into the current and catching one another at the other end.
We made are way back, ate lunch and packed up. Bernard came again, this time he rode his motorbike and he and Tanya would stay on one more night at the Dia Mama's. I gave Tanya my share for the single night's charge and it was a mere 300NT (like $12cdn).
The bike ride down was quicker and just as stunning. But all I wanted at this point was to get home get food and get to bed because the next day Karen S. (my roommate) and I would go to Jici to surf and see the ocean for my last time.
At home finally, I packed my suitcases for going back home, took care of a few last details and got ready for the beach. Karen and I would be driving the van down this time so we could take and pack whatever. Justin lent us his big boat of a wreckage; he likes to call his surfboard. Actually this is the board I would be riding because the board that is Tylor's was not at the clubhouse waiting for me to use at my leisure. Karen S. had never been on board before and she has a little 6'4", light with a few dents, a cute surfboard. (I was only a little jealous of it... she got a really good deal on it). Karen A. decided she would come to and just meet us down there a little later. I used Karen's phone and SMS'ed everyone I knew and wanted to say goodbye to, so I didn't know who and who not would come down that day, night or next day.
When we got to the pavilion there were no waves, I thought, "Perfect, it's a great day to teach Karen a little about what I know about surfing." (As I said before I'm no expert, but I know something and I could teach Karen that). Karen carried her board and I slugged my boat trying not to get stung by the fiber glass and set off into the small surf. We paddled, sat, balanced, paddled, switched boards (I didn't want to switch back but I had to) paddled, sat and balanced. What looked like big waves to Karen, she tried paddle into and catch. She only caught a small jelly fish on her arm. Then I got off my board and tried to see how many backwards dolphin spins I could do... I think I got 6 or 7. This time we were allowed to catch a breath each time, so it was really about who could do more without getting dizzy or completely disoriented.
By the time we got out of the water, Karen A. was there on her scooter. We collected wood and made a campfire pit. I got some things ready and the Karen's went up to the small convenience to get a grill and some tea. When they got back, an hour before sunset we just kinda looked at each other and laughed, we sat and we looked out over the mountains and the ocean soaking up the beauty, but it was strange to, we were all connected in this fascinating bond, we forgot about the fire pit and dinner and sat in the sand talking, discussing, and feeling the earth, but trying hard to truly feel it, hear it and see it. We extended our minds into this open trust triangle. The sun set and there was three lights on the mountain at a place called Baci that formed a triangle and it was so neat and we just sat, the three of us completely triangulated and extended and open. It was great. The connection we had was surreal and beautiful. Everything seemed to have this newness about it and the three us were completely giddy with wonder, curiosity, bondage and friendship that I realize will be with me forever. It was so neat; we lived in that moment and made the most of that exact time. We decided on things to do and eat sporadically and as a group. It was an intense time. We made our way through the darkness, over rocks and driftwood back to the spot where I had the campfire ready to go. The Karen's sat and I lit the fire. This night I felt as though we were sisters at one lost time.
The triangle was broken when Terry came. I had SMS'ed him earlier that day so he came to see what was up. He made us some food which was awesome and then as we talked still slightly giddy, Terry took pictures on his SLR. I wonder what they will look like. After eating, the girls drifted off, I was tired to from the day and the weekend, but I had never really talked to Terry although we worked together at the 'Hill', a place that seems so distant now. We talked and talked and he is completely interesting. Not wanting to end another night thus bringing me closer to the time I must leave Taiwan, my body gave in and I found my sleeping bag and mat and lay down next to Karen and slept.
I woke to the perfect wave break. I'm not a morning talker so I slipped into my bathing suit and shorts, picked up my... err, Justin's huge tank'o'board and lugged it to the water merely saying to Terry and Karen S. who opened their eyes to the early movement that distracted them, 'the waves are good right now!' I charged in.
Paddling was easy, but catching a wave was not. I'm too presumptuous and indecisive about the waves that roll. After about a half hour of not catching anything and realizing maybe I wasn't ready to wake up yet. My body tuckered out. Perhaps if Tylor, Gary, Geoff, Jamie or JD were out there with me I would have a slightly different attitude. So I hauled out, disappointed with myself and slightly embarrassed by my overconfidence when facing Terry and Karen sitting there slightly awake and watching me. I bowed my head down and muttered something, although I can't remember what that was. I'm sure the two of them really didn't give my pitiful surfing a second thought, because we soon walked to get hot water, milk and sugar, coffee was the next order of business.
After coffee we could all think a little more clearly. Karen wanted to surf, so I was stoked but we would have to go down the beach closer to the resort because it is usually safer there. Surfboards in the van, Karen S. backed out the narrow and steep driveway, turned in to turn up and out she slammed on the break and yelled at me to get out and push. Her back wheel was nearly off the side, this was a problem we wanted to avoid. After one small slip we decided it would be better if Terry were there to help. Karen's foot hard on the break I ran back down the path, trying to be serious but laughing a little. I told Terry to just come with and see, I couldn't really explain. Well Terry had no clue either. It would be silly to push and there was nothing we could stuff under to the break the fall. So we found a silly little rope and hooked it on the front of the van. It would do nothing really but it looked good and looked like would were really trying. Karen's foot is still on the break really hard and it is beginning to cramp. I tell her encouraging words while Terry and I really assess the situation... The thing is, Karen has only been driving a 'stick' about 7 times, and she would really have to gun it up the hill and then break as to not go off the other side. We were in a pickle, so it seemed, but then Terry found a rock and then I thought if we could wedge the other wheel we wouldn't have to worry about it slipping back anymore. Then Terry secured the wedge, with final words of encouragement, Karen let go of the break and quickly engaged the clutch with the gas and everything was okay. Terry went back to his spot in the shade and Karen and I made our way to the Surf spot.
The waves had already picked up again; we could see the early signs of the big typhoon that was on its way. Just on the other side of the roped off area's for swimmers; we stood and counted the waves. The beach was sand here for about 8 meter's and then rocky for another 100 down the beach so that's why we were right where we were. I got in first and had to really concentrate on not getting pushed or pummeled back into shore. Telling Karen to come out when she thinks it safe I realized that there is a strong current below me and it's pulling me to the swim area. (I'm not worried about hitting people because there was no-one at the beach except the lifeguards). Looking back at Karen and trying to paddle out of the current and the crashing waves, I'm quickly picked up, turned over the rope, one leg on either side being dragged down along this tight rope. My surf giant board velcrowed to my ankle and the huge wave, together they pull and push me down further along the rope, me yelping from the pain inside my head wondering if it will stop, then I got popped again in that lower region by a red bobble that keeps the rope a float. Ouch!!! The next time up I catch my breath, that next time, I see if the Life guards notice or care (they notice, but they don't care) the next time I catch my breath I'm trying wave to Karen to tell her not to bother coming in, it's way to dangerous. Then I hobble out crying and laughing in over the pain and the ridiculousness of the 'incident'. Cupping my crotch crying and laughing, I decide that even though today is my last day to Surf, it just isn't worth it. Maybe later if some of the guys show up I'll try again.
Actually we couldn't even swim. Karen got dragged on the rocks by a wave that overtook her. So we showered and went back to the pavilion.
Lunch and alone time was in order. I soaked up the sun and played in the sand. Karen S. slept. Karen A read in her hammock at her spot in the shade. Justin came and he and Terry hung out and talked.
Clean up and go.
Karen and I stopped at a mini gorge and washed off in the fresh water; I covered myself with clay and then washed of again.
Back at home for my last moments, Karen had a nap and I moved all my bags and such downstairs. I never heard from the 'guys' yet so I phoned Tylor... 'they may stop in on their way down to "Bashi" where they would catch some killer Typhoon surf'. I wasn't really expecting to see them however because Tanya would be coming over soon and we were going out for dinner and drink and then it would be late and Karen agreed to pick up Tiffany from the train station and now JD and Virginia would also be coming back so I could see them to once more before I left Hualien on the Train at 5:40 am Wednesday morning. It was now 7 pm Tuesday night and Karen was still napping.
Tanya came over and I made her wake up Karen, I have this thing about not wanting to wake people up, I don't like that moment of slumber, to anger and then calmness and grogginess.
Tanya, Karen S. and I left and we ate at this Thai place, Bernard joined us. The food was good. Then Tanya, Karen S. and I left and went to this upscale bar that looked out over Hualien. We had one drink because it seemed the night would end shortly if I were to get even a wink of sleep, Karen to.
We had our final conversations, I don't recall what they were about, mostly because it didn't matter, just that the moment was special. Tanya left and it was just Karen and I once more. We had just less then 2 hours before 12:15am when Tiff, JD, and V would need to be picked up and I was sure I missed the guys while we were out for drink etc. So I set Karen’s phone alarm for 12 and we set in for a nap in the downstairs. The phone rang and it was Doug, Karen's boyfriend, who would come home the following day after I left (hopefully if the Typhoon didn't disrupt his return flight). That was nice to chat with him quickly because it was his house that I had been living at that last month, so I got to really say thanks and goodbye. While Karen chatted to him I snuggled in the chair for another nap, I think I had 45 minutes before pick up time. (I guess the count down for my departure had really begun). Anyway there are guys at the door. I let them in, Geoff (east coast Canadian) and Jamie (Australian), then Gary (Local) and Tylor (Ontario Canadian). They all admired Karen's new board and also felt those jealous pains over the price for the quality of board she got... and as Tylor said... 'it even came with the board bag'.
We made our way upstairs while Karen was still talking to Doug and we all talked and laughed, mostly about surf stuff, but also about the most recentness’ of life in Hualien. I taught Tylor how to play Kalaha... this really neat Thai marble game. Then Caleb (South African) and his buddy Brian came over. Wow it was really great to see these guys, I was for a moment really sad that I wouldn't get to say bye properly but it all worked out. Then Karen picked up T, JD, and V and they hung out for a bit. Geoff suggested we all go to the beach in Hualien to watch the Typhoon waves really come in and make a fire. Sounded good to me, and I was no longer tired and I had to be at the train station in 4hours anyway.
So we set out, JD and V had to go home, as did Caleb and Brian that was alright though. The rest of us (not Karen either she wanted those 4 hours of sleep) went to Bai Bin Beach and the waves were ten times as high as they were in the afternoon down in Jici Beach. More Surf talk and lots of laughs, Barley from New Zealand even came around.
Man I was just so happy in this moment. I had a nice talk with Tiffany; she had just got back from 2 weeks in Thailand and had had a completely amazing fast. The time was ticking though, harder and harder. Finally it was time.
I asked Geoff those two words again that remind me of him and the guys that are funny to hear.... 'doieya' and 'howbunga'. translating 'yeah' and 'very nice'. I got great heartfelt hugs from everyone; it was really a special time.
Then Barley drove me back the long way around to the house, so I could see Hualien/Mayluen one more time. Karen was already to go, and so I packed the van and headed to the Train Station just as the sun was starting to come up. It's 5:20am Wednesday August 31st and my time, this time was over. And the answer to all your questions is that Taiwan is a possibility in the future to come back to.
From the train to being late and in the rain. Trying to find the bus and realizing all my emotion of leaving Taiwan and coming home I cried, and with a pack on my front and a pack on my back, some rice paddy hats on my head, a great big duffle bag in my left hand, and a large purse over my shoulder I had no sympathy from anywhere in Taipei. The Typhoon was overhead and I couldn't find the bus, I hailed a taxi and tried to explain through my tears that I only had $300Nt ($12 cdn) but I needed to get to the chang check airport ( I don't think I even said it right). He didn't know what to do with me so he called me some kind of chicken, even with his minimal English he could still make fun of me in my state that I was in, how clever. Anyway after going around the block he decides he can't take me to the airport but he will take me to the bus station. I give him 90NT for taking me back to where we started but a little further down the road. I caught the next bus and then thought of positive things so that perhaps I would have better luck at the airport. Crossing my fingers I hoped and prayed my flight would not be cancelled because of the Typhoon. And to the Gods who love me thanks, everything else worked out that day... I even had a window or an Aisle seat the whole time. All other flights were cancelled that day.
I’m home
Anonymous
September 7 2005, 15:41:39 UTC 6 years ago
Welcome Back
Hey there girl,Glad you made it back home safe and sound... miss it yet? Anyways great journal, and thanks for the postcard. Miss you lots... but it looks as though I may be Toronto for a few days in Nov for a conferance. Care to party it up? Hehehe. Ryan sends his love, as do I. Send me your number and I will call you one of these days now that you are back.
Ann